If you want to find out how hearty a Santa Maria Valley pinot noir can
be, pop this bottle (though you might want to wait a few years, so be
sure to decant if you drink now). This wine comes from old vines (by
Santa Barbara County standards — they were planted in the 1970s), and it
gets pumped up with 11 months in 39 percent new French oak (hence that
need for some bottle age).